212'th Clone trooper helmet

3D printed Star wars prop

File used: Phase 2 Clone trooper Helmet (Wearable version) - printables.com

Slicing

Naively dragging the file into the slicer shows that it does not fit onto the build plate of my Ender 3 3D printers, making an imaginary printer with the dimmensions to fit such a large print reveals that it would take 4 days and 12 hours to print (without support material), (and use ≈ 1kg of filament). This is not feasible, the solution is to break the print into smaller pieces, that fit onto the build plate, and constraints it to a size where, should a fatal error occur, it will be contained to one salvageable piece. I elected to slice these smaller parts myself, instead of using the pre-cut pieces from the author. This was to make the pieces smaller so they would print during the day, and i could turn the printers of at night (they're in my bedroom). Were i to print a helment again, i would find a different solution. As the pieces take a non-insignificant amount of time to join seamlessly. You can hide seams under ledges, and on flat stretches without details.

Assembling pieces

I assembled the pieces as i went, using CA glue to hold it in place, and a cheap soldering iron. The soldering iron method works supprisingly well, producing solid joints akin to one piece, however burning the CA produces foul fumes. You can hide the seams by only joining them on the inside of the helmet.

⚠️ Melting, sanding and painting should be done in a well ventilated area, and with a proper respirator. You do not want dust and fumes in your lungs.

The final piece wouldn't fit flat against the other pieces, but pouring boiling water on it, allowed me to bend it into shape.

Filler and sanding

To produce a good surface finish on the finished product, we need to get rid of the 3D printed layer lines. The best way to do this is to add a layer of automotive body filler (the stuff used to fill dents on car bodies). And sand this away until it reveals the 3D print underneath. I however only partly did this, i directly sanded the 3D print, and added wood Polyfilla from Jem og Fix. This was suboptimal, and took a looooong looooong time to sand.

Base color painting

After you're sure you're happy with the sanding, you should add a filler primer to hide the last of the layer lines, i skipped this step and went overboard with the sanding instead. Spray paint it with the base color, letting it dry inbetween coats. Don't touch it.

Accent colors (before weathering)

After letting it dry, any details can be painted using cheap acrylic paint for an OK result. Although this can leave it with visible brush strokes and a cheapish semi-shiny look. Add some paint chipping effects.

Finish (weathering)

If you wish to go for a battle damaged look, you'll want to weather your model. First look up some videos on the subject, and put em on while you're sanding. First you'll want to give it a wash with dark acrylic paint, this allows for some sediment to accumilate in the nooks and crannies, like it would in real life. Next add some scuffs and scratches, preferably ones that would come from actual use, like ones that hit the most exposed parts, continuing from one raised part to the next.

The most important part is: Don't go overboard, it's really easy to get carried away, but this will look distasteful and like you're trying to hard.

Details

Visor

For the visor i cut an acrylic sheet to size using a dremel and added some window tint from Jysk. I heated it with a blow torch and bend it around a round object of roughly the right radius. It looks someone non-uniform as it warps, and the film doesn't stick that well to the acrylic, but it get's the job done. Perhaps a thinner material would be better.

Stripes

I made the stripes by 2D printing a stencil, and cut them out of vinyl, i think this turned out really well, as it adds a bit of 3D and texture change, i think paint would have looked less well put together.

Padding

Lastly i added some packing foam to the inside adhered with hot glue, as it allows for removal.

Leasons learned:

• Size it virtually before printing, it tured out a bit big, i knew this could be an issue, but i was too negligent and eager to begin. Perhaps a 3D scan of ones head would work well.
• The ammount of work saved by printing larger instead of smaller ones, is worth it.
• Get a cheap soldering iron for this purpose, with temperature adjustment, the ones without get too hot.
• Sanding sucks, use a better automotive body filler and filler primer, and use a machine.
• Use the galactic armory model with a metal grate.
• Rework the visor, perhaps methodology, parhaps materials, as it's a bit wobbly. Perhaps a thin corona visor would me more mailable and easy to shape.

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